People who love animals can unknowingly fuel their sufferingSPECIAL REPORTThe hidden cost of WILDLIFE TOURISM06.2019© Pfizer 2017 Use as directed.OUR FIRST CONCENTRATED PILL WORKS AT LIQUID SPEED.BIG NEWS: FAST PAIN RELIEF IS NOW MIGHTY SMALLJUNE 2019 THE BIG IDEA In Search of the Kissing Bug Though some 300,000 people in the U.S. have this parasitic infection, many don’t know it. BY DAISY HERNÁNDEZ GENIUS Ma Jun He gives people in China the power to fight pollution. BY RACHEL HARTIGAN SHEA On Hallowed Beaches Over the decades, a photographer has returned to the shores of Normandy to cap- ture a place forever defined by war. STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID BURNETTPROOF EM BARK EXPLORE17 830 GETTING THERE Trek to the Deep In Vietnam, jungle and leeches greet hik- ers venturing into two of Earth’s largest caves. BY ALESSANDRO CERÈ THROUGH THE LENS Where Reptiles Rule In a paradise on an isolated coral atoll, a photographer dis- covers he’s just part of the ecosystem. BY THOMAS P. PESCHAK ALSO Dragonfly Tricks Movie Soundmaking Queer HistoryOn the Cover A captive sloth peers out of a cage in Amazonian Peru. Sloths and other animals—elephants, tigers, dolphins—often suffer abuse in the thriving wildlife tourism industry. KIRSTEN LUCECONTENTS ALSO Baby Planets Popcorn Robots Fluorescent SquirrelsFURTHERFEATURES Pacific Ring of Fire This 25,000-mile-long hot zone threatens growing populations. BY MANUEL CANALES AND MATTHEW W. CHWASTYK .....................................P. 120 Seaweed That Feeds A stunning array of life fills the Sargasso Sea. BY JAMES PROSEK PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID DOUBILET AND DAVID LIITTSCHWAGER .....................................P. 126Pangolins The mammal is killed for its scales and meat. BY RACHAEL BALE PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRENT STIRTON .......................................P. 78 The Brave Ones These women rangers are shaking up the con- servation landscape. BY LINDSAY N. SMITH PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRENT STIRTON .....................................P. 102Wildlife Tourism It’s a lucrative part of the booming global travel industry, fueled by social media users’ love of posing with exotic animals. But what wildlife tourist attractions do to amuse humans can have brutal conse- quences for animals. BY NATASHA DALY PHOTOGRAPHS BY KIRSTEN LUCE ......................................P. 44A WILDLIFE WATCH SPECIAL REPORTJUNE | CONTENTS